April 2012

More Than Mystery Restaurants

  • Köttbaren
  • Bakery & Spice
  • Djuret
  • >
  • Ekstedt
  • Urban Deli
  • Bianchi Café & Cycles

+46 (0) 8 505 244 26 / kottbaren.se

Part of a surge in restaurants that focus on meat, Köttbaren (“meat bar”) serves slow-cooked dishes from a menu that changes daily. Plus, Stockholmers and visitors alike can buy cuts of meat from the counter to prepare themselves.

+46 (0) 8 410 681 00 / restaurangag.se

What strikes you first at this restaurant, neatly tucked away on a backstreet on the island of Kungsholmen, are the displays of large carcasses that contrast dramatically with the white tiles. “We only source the best ingredients, and that’s why it’s visible to our customers,” says co-owner Klas Ljungquist.

+46 (0) 8 509 078 30 / svenharrys.com

This restaurant, inside the museum of the same name, serves modern European food, including moules frites and tenderized Swedish beef, alongside its art installations. Panoramic windows open up to Vasa Park.

Bakery & Spice
+46 (0) 8 333990 / bakeryandspice.se

This spot is so popular it ran out of bread on its opening day—and it’s been full ever since. Grab some baked goods for the road, or just pop in to smell the lovely cardamom buns.

+46 (0) 8 506 400 84 / djuret.se

Typical of the meat-eating temples here, old-fashioned books line shelves, elk heads adorn the walls and charts of animal anatomies cover the tablecloths. Not so typical: Djuret (“the animal”) serves food from only one species at a time.

+46 (0) 8 662 30 60 / gastrologik.se

British food pundit A.A. Gill recently called this place “modern, elegantly intelligent...and unmistakably Swedish.” He is right. A must for that minimal Nordic experience: Just two or three dishes, and they change daily.

Leijontornet 12X8
Email only: crespi@leijontornet.se / live.gluteus.se/leijontornet

Since this supper club–styled spot is only open 12 times a year—six each in spring and fall—and seats but eight diners, you will have to schedule your trip accordingly. Once you secure a golden ticket, there’s a set menu—and the beverage is as important here as the deliciously seasonal food.

+46 (0) 8 679 35 84 / mathiasdahlgren.com

The seat to have at this Ilse Crawford–designed eatery, which translates to “food bar,” is at a wobbly 16th-century table made from one huge piece of wood. Far from putting diners off with its shakes, it’s a conversation starter. If that’s taken, have a seat at the bar and watch the chefs in the open kitchen.

+46 (0) 8 611 12 10 / ekstedt.nu

Restaurateur Niklas Ekstedt wants diners to channel their inner caveman/woman. An open fire stoked with Scandinavian woods takes center stage, and everything—from crayfish to lamb to baked apples—is prepared or finished over the glowing coals.

Urban Deli
+46 (0) 599 091 90 / urbandeli.org

So obsessed with sourdough is the city that this is the world’s first dough hotel, where locals can leave their leavening bread while on holiday. Ah, but checking in isn’t required to enjoy a cinnamon bun and peruse the sourdough jars along the walls.

Bianchi Café & Cycles
+46 (0) 8 611 21 00 / bianchicafecycles.com

European bicycle company Bianchi chose Stockholm to open its first concept store, where it sells bikes alongside the antipasti and espresso.

+46 (0) 8 410 193 20 / landet.nu

For a break from the city buzz, take the metro a few stops out, and enjoy a fusion of Swedish seasonal food and French cuisine, including baked pollock with stewed mussels and confit pork belly with mustard fruits, cabbage and parsley roots.

Sankt Paulsgatan 17
11846 Stockholm

Such an iconic establishment it doesn’t have a phone number or Website. Mikael Blomkvist (aka Daniel Craig) got his caffeine fix here in the American version of The Girl with the Dragon Tattoo. Musttries: chanterelle toast and coconut-covered brownies.

Hemma Hos Linn
Email only: info@hemmahoslinn.se / hemmahoslinn.se

When she’s not cooking at a local restaurant, Linn Söderström hosts dinner clubs in her home using local ingredients, even harvesting some herself. It’s a great way to meet locals.

Köttbaren: Martin Cederblad
Ekstedt: Mathias Nordgren