Balsamic
by SARAH TAYLOR / recipe by CASEY LANE / photographs by PEDEN+MUNK
These days, reading the words balsamic vinaigrette on a menu can test the resolve of even the most dedicated gourmet. All too often, the substance in question arrives at your table as a mass-produced, insipid reflection of the authentic, artisanally made varieties that first earned the condiment the adoration of diners. Could it be the king of vinegars has lately lost its luster? To chef Casey Lane of the Tasting Kitchen in Venice, traditional Italian balsamic is deep and complex. “It’s one of the more intriguing products in theworld,” he says, “because it changes throughout its maturation.” Indeed, as premier balsamic vinegar ages, it evolves into something greater—a velvety, full-bodied, slightly woody elixir that is simply a wonder to ingest. For Lane, “It develops a soul with a richness that comes from having lived a full life.”
For those ready to experience true balsamic in all its glory, Lane recommends La Vecchia Dispensa 10 Year, made by Modena.“It’s far and away the best,” he says enthusiastically. His balsamic roasted cherries showcase the distinctive qualities of the elixir in its prime. They’re a stunningly flavorful, ruby-hued accompaniment to the Tasting Kitchen’s hearty duck-liver torchon. They’re also superb alongside roast pork, duck and any other rich protein.
BALSAMIC ROASTED CHERRIES
1 pound Bing cherries, stem on, pit in
¼ cup olive oil (ideally a more peppery variety)
1 tablespoon cracked pepper
1 tablespoon fleur de sel
4 sprigs thyme
1 cup La Vecchia Dispensa 10 Yr
Preheat oven to 400 degrees. In a bowl, toss cherries with olive oil. Season with salt and pepper and toss with thyme sprigs. Arrange in a single layer in a stainless-steel or glass roasting pan. Pour vinegar on top, cover with foil and roast for about 8 minutes. Remove foil and continue roasting until cherries are wrinkled and balsamic is reduced to a syrup, about 15 minutes. Yields 8–10 portions.
VIDEO: See Casey Lane in action in his Tasting Kitchen >
Categories: Entertaining / Food / Food + Wine / Gardens / Pantry / Photos / Pictorials / Recipes
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Would be great if it were possible to find cherries this time of year.
Posted by: Daniel | 10/01/2011 at 12:12 PM
So it costs $30 for the vinegar? Nice. Should taste good-
Posted by: NMCAIA | 10/01/2011 at 05:47 PM
My bad. The bottle shown is $82.49 plus shipping.
Posted by: NMCAIA | 10/01/2011 at 05:53 PM
sorry as chic as you are pretending to be promoting eating duck, roast pork- I'd rather roast you and eat you- leave these precious animals alone,,,
Posted by: denise bella vlasis | 10/06/2011 at 03:09 PM
Are you aware of the suffering that the ducks endure so that you can enjoy your duck liver torchon?? Workers ram pipes down male ducks' or geese's throats two or three times daily and pump as much as 4 pounds of grain and fat into the animals' stomachs, causing their livers to bloat to up to 10 times their normal size. Many birds have difficulty standing because of their engorged livers, and they may tear out their own feathers and cannibalize each other out of stress. The birds are also kept in tiny wire cages or packed into sheds. On some farms, a single worker may be expected to force-feed 500 birds three times each day. Because of this rush, animals are often treated roughly and left injured and suffering.
Now that you are aware, I hope you will make the choice not to eat duck liver torchon. .
Posted by: Lynn Westbrook | 10/06/2011 at 04:27 PM
Foie Gras is cruel and inhumane. Not chic. LA Times, be a company that is socially responsible and take animal products off your plates and and advertisements.
Posted by: Beth L | 10/07/2011 at 11:01 AM
we have all kinds of culinary standards, yet no standards at all when it comes to procuring animal products. i hope new chefs, not set in their ways, will raise the bar.
Posted by: catherine turley | 10/07/2011 at 11:34 AM
BOYCOTT LA Times for promoting and condoning the barbaric animal cruelty involved in the making of foie gras!
Posted by: EH | 10/07/2011 at 01:49 PM
Foie gras = animal cruelty. Plain and simple. This should be outlawed not celebrated.
Posted by: Briana | 10/12/2011 at 04:19 PM