On the Road Again
Going someplace in an iconic VW bus provides much more than a ride—it’s a reconnection to life in the slow lane
DANIEL
FRANKEL
ILLUSTRATION: ROSS MACDONALD
To a certain generation, the Volkswagen bus was a kind of home away from your parents—a low-cost, easy-to-repair, air-cooled, exquisitely engineered—if vastly underpowered—four-cylinder recreational vehicle that allowed you to live with mom and dad but still do all those fun, counterculturey things you couldn’t do under their roof.
Produced since 1950 under the official name Transporter, these slow-moving panel vans have been called by lots of names—microbus, minibus, Vanagon. But “hippie bus” has probably stuck best. My wife, Vivian, and I operate more under the classification of “aging Gen-Xers,” so when we rolled into Costa Mesa’s Vintage Surfari Wagons, our agenda was a bit different from the early longhaired pioneers. Some 44 years removed from the Summer of Love, we were getting away from our kids.
Bill and Diane Staggs rent from a fleet of 10 restored VW buses. The most vintage is a pea green 1977 pop-top camper tricked out with the Westfalia package, meaning everything from kitchen sink to sleeping compartment. The Staggs supply flashlights, dishes, bedding, bike racks—whatever you need. “You just show up and go,” he said.
Many patrons mount surfboards on their rentals and choose a coastal sojourn. Ever the rebels, we opted to go the other way—to Joshua Tree. Save for our Rottweiler-Lab, Quincy, there would be no sentient others to feed, clothe or distract with “I Spy” games. For 36 hours, we were, like, free, man. Then Staggs broke the news: The 1986 Westfalia Vanagon with the automatic transmission we were supposed to rent wasn’t available. And I can’t drive a stick.
That was fine with Vivian, who had driven a 1969 bus all over Zimbabwe after college. Suddenly effervescent, she volunteered to do all the driving, and I saw a fresh opportunity for her to exploit one of her long-cherished talents—insult comedy. “You sit where the girl sits,” she said. Whatever, dude.
Off we went in rush-hour traffic from the 55 to the 91 to the 60 to the 10. Before long, Vivian’s smarty-pants jokes gave way to a hard reality: Her hand was beginning to hurt from all that shifting. But free of our quotidian work, home and family responsibilities, that barely even registered as a bummer.
Once we hit Riverside and finally reached escape velocity, we began to understand why these rides have graduated from mass-market popularity to global cult status. And then we started reminiscing. Vivian recalled what it was like to be 23, driving rural roads with expat friends in an old bus for which they’d all pitched in. For me, it was the distinctive rumble of the Vanagon’s 2.2-liter engine, an internal-combustion sound so ubiquitous in my youth. That growl is gone now, muffled by catalytic converters or obliterated altogether by hybrid engineering. We hadn’t even realized it disappeared.
As the winds threatened to blow us all over the road and SUVs whipped by us, we settled in, accepting arrival the way generations of VW-bus travelers had: We’d get there when we got there.
As the winds threatened to blow us all over the road and SUVs whipped by us with extreme prejudice, we settled into our journey, accepting arrival the way generations of VW-bus travelers had in decades prior: We’d get there when we got there.
For us, that would be late evening, when we nestled into a site alongside massive Airstreams, Coachmens and Winnebagos. We dined in the bus’ deceptively spacious cabin, under the romantic light of a florescent lantern, and pondered a card game. Instead, we opted to keep talking about things we no longer get to talk about, chilling the way we no longer get to chill, safe from the gusting winds. As we unwound in this old camping van, perhaps purchased decades ago by a family very much like ours, Vivian said wistfully, “What if we bought an old VW bus?”
She’s a dreamer like that, and being out in nature made those dreams more vivid. Hmmm, I’ve always wanted to restore an old car. I actually liked the idea. This could indulge a middle-aged fantasy and entertain our whole family—the proverbial win-win.
With that thought in the air, we moved on to our favorite thing about camping—sleeping under the stars. Recalling Bill Staggs’ carefully delivered lesson about levers and latches, we “popped” the top and threw pillows and blankets into the newly created perfect tent space for two. Warm desert winds were rockin’ the van, baby...and we passed out like babies.
By morning, the winds had died, so we boiled up water for instant Starbucks and breakfasted alfresco on some scrambled eggs and sausage we cooked on the van’s propane stove. But the light of day—and a quick look at Craigslist—brought a reality check to the idea of buying our own VW minivan. With worthy oldies starting around $7,000, the purchase would have to be relegated to the realm of starry dreams.
But this van was ours for the day, and the escape it promised was always as close as Orange County. We took it nice and easy for the afternoon, then handed the bus back to Staggs. “We’ll be back,” I said with a smile.
Rates vary by season; vwsurfari.com.
DANIEL FRANKEL is news editor for the entertainment-news site the Wrap. He still can’t drive a stick.
My everyday ride in Boston and Cape Cod is a 79 bus, bay window style. It makes my day just to climb in it and sit so high and chill out as I move around the scurrying drivers intent on cutting me off as they rush about in their Brownian futility. Wouldn't trade it for the world. I've met so many people who come up to tell me about "the best summer of their life.." Peace!
Now, I am building my next novel around a character who lives in one on Beacon Hill in Boston. Could be the best summer of my life!
Posted by: dennis | 07/07/2011 at 04:54 AM
The best feature of my '71 DeLuxe Transporter is that it is my daily driver .
Peace out , Wizzard
Posted by: Wizzard | 07/07/2011 at 09:18 AM
You can't afford $ 7,000 for a car/camper? The Times must not pay very well. New, a Vanagon camper was around that price and probably higher. Most post 1967 buses/campers sell for far less than their original purchase price. A new bug costs way more than $ 7,000 and you can't sleep in it or cook a meal.
Posted by: Larry Pierce | 07/07/2011 at 11:05 AM
Good article. I've had my 71 for 16 years would never give it up. But you can spring for 7 grand to keep the wife happy.
Posted by: Harrison | 07/07/2011 at 03:18 PM
"The rents" bought me a VW bus for my first car in college- I had a photojournalism assignment to take some newsworthy photo-in the middle of winter, the van slid into some bushes in the snow as I returned to the frat- the van buried half way in the snowy evergreen became my "news photo" Oh well. Several years later I had another one and traveled to California with my girlfriend- we stayed at Sunset beach, then drove north- the alternator went out in Ventura and something else was wrong in Palo Alto, where we had to stay a few days- great memories-- but a mini-van has always been a more viable vehicle since 1984.
Posted by: harpon | 07/10/2011 at 07:01 PM
Back in 1969 I drove a '63 custom camper van with 5 crank window/curtains, closet, fold down backseat/bed, ice fridge when I was 16. I installed a curtain behind the front seats and had a party on wheels.
Eventually I removed the fridge to haul my band's equipment.
If the van was a rockin'....
Posted by: KC | 07/10/2011 at 08:44 PM
My '65 VW Bus was a 1500 cc that I had to tow home, which happened to be my boss' warehouse in southern Maryland, 1972.
It had thrown a valve thur a piston, as I recall, but I was up to rebuilding it with the remarkable Idiot's Book. The rebuilt honey served me well until 1977.
In the meantime, I had it painted in Kansas, for $25, and extensively modified the interior myself to my ideal: paisley headliner, cabinets, unusual seating, a quickie bed setup, and put the spare tire on the front "hood."
I loved the way it drove, and driving it, leaning over the steering wheel, and the company of highway people I picked up in those days.
Then one night, in N. Californian, I met a lady in a tavern and went home with her. My friends rolled my car on their way back home, totallying it. Need I add, thankfully, they were f...... safe, not a scratch, and I got an old skill saw for reimbursement.
Still, good memories will last 'till I go to the grave. Years later I bought a '68 Van,pop-up, one-piece windshield, but that's another story.
Posted by: thad | 07/10/2011 at 09:43 PM
We are currently in North Carolina driving our faithful westy, Lazarus on a vacation from Missouri. A fully functioning roadworthy bus costs more like $20,000. I know of no better way to spend my bread!
David and Lesley
Posted by: david oswald | 07/11/2011 at 05:25 AM
http://inlandempire.craigslist.org/cto/2440615688.html
Posted by: -Nate | 07/11/2011 at 12:54 PM
I own a 72 Westy hardtop that I inherited in mint condition. I wouldn't sell it due to all the memories I have grown up in it with my grandparents. They truly are the 'Peoples' car. I've since rebuilt the engine to larger specs (2056cc) and rebuilt the Trans as well.
Posted by: JimF | 07/12/2011 at 06:43 AM
I bought my brand new VW Bus from LA VW (Downtown) back in 1978 and owned it for 15 years.
After two rebuilt engines I sadly retired her. I miss that bus more than any of my cars of my past.
Posted by: John Boyle | 07/12/2011 at 01:18 PM
I had a '67 bus back in the day. Me and my dog Robyn would live in it all Summer in Isle Vista. I would do research in the UCSB library in the morning, then we would go to Coal-Oil Beach until the sun went down.
Posted by: David Null | 07/15/2011 at 05:45 PM
Thanks, but I'll stick with my classic Toyota Chinook poptop and Toytota Chinook Omega. Mechanically they run circles around VWs, and they're easier and cheaper to fix. Better design, too.
Ranger Don
Posted by: "Ranger" Don Scott | 07/15/2011 at 06:33 PM
I once had a 72 camper with custom dual exhaust that I drove from Boston to Seattle to Vancouver to San Fran to LA to Tijuana back to Seattle then back to LA to Phoenix to El Paso to Omaha to NYC and back to Boston... the stories that Bus could tell. I sold it for 4k to a Phish Phan in Vermont with 33k more miles than it had when I bought it.. 95-97
Posted by: Joshua Bartos | 07/15/2011 at 11:21 PM
My boyfriend and I moved to Hawai'i in 1978 and we sent our VW van over by boat to be there when we arrived. We had no home at the time, so for the first couple of weeks, we lived in the van. I hated taking "spit baths" in the local McDonald's and sleeping at beach parking lots. But the "camper" did its job and was home for us for a short while. I moved back to the mainland after only 3 months, but my boyfriend stayed ... and still lives there to this day. I have to ask him (we are still friends) whatever happened to the "bus?"
Posted by: Carrie Cann | 07/16/2011 at 11:58 AM
I have bought VW campers in Europe three times and travelled all of Europe for several of the best years of my life. Met many wonderful people and saw it all from the Arctic Circle to the Sahara and from Ireland to Turkey. And at very little cost! It can't be beat.
Posted by: Bob Mitchell | 07/16/2011 at 10:14 PM
I bought my 1978 Westfalia in college in 1987. I also own a Syncro Vanagon Westfalia and have owned a number of 1974 "Westys" and a LT28 Westfalia also made by VW. I love them and would never want to not have the instant camping and mellow vibe that goes with them.
Posted by: Eric Hansen | 07/20/2011 at 04:28 PM
Peace Dude (Y)
Posted by: Mseng | 07/21/2011 at 08:45 AM
My first was a '56, purchased from two Australian carpenters who were living in it on the street in London, across from the Duke of York Headquarters.
They had mail delivered to it, using the plate number for an address. They had bought it from a German, who had worked in the VW factory, and who had built a rudimentary camper car inside the van. Many coats of white enamel later, it was good to go. When we moved to Copenhagen, we lived in it for a month in a campground in Naerum, a suburb, and I walked to the highway every morning and caught the City bus to work downtown. A year later, we lived in it for three months in Italy with our infant son, before selling it to a friend and leaving Europe. Its only quirk was that I had to file the points every 100 kilometers; and the security system in London was restricted to removing the rotor from the distributor each evening.
The second was also a '56, purchased from a plumber who had used it for a work van. An apprentice repainted it, I built an interior of 1/8" plywood and stressed-skin panels; and off we went to the midwest, in our $100 car, to graduate school (from the west coast.) With a set of chains, that van was unstoppable in the Michigan winter.
The third was a full-blown Westfalia, bought with scholarship money; and it saw the eastern seaboard, Atlantic Canada, the Florida Keys each Spring Break, and annual trips to the west coast every summer for six years, with two kids romping in the back end.
A family move back to the west coast prompted the last VW van--a new red window van that was totally "bare" and that soon was equipped with a Westfalia hammock in the front, and a backward-facing passenger seat just behind the cockpit that suited the elder son for sleeping; as well as the typical folding rear seat that doubled as a double sleeping space. Holidays in California, hiking trips in the Rockies, and duties as a beast of burden as the first home renovations commenced, were all part of the job description. The battery fell out through the bottom, onto the street on this one, and I couldn't teach my elder son to drive it; but, no hard feelings--those cars were an important part of my family's life for 20 years.
Posted by: Gerry Rolfsen | 07/27/2011 at 05:37 PM
This past spring while on a family vacation to Joshua Tree I ran into a couple driving a 70's Westy. As a Squareback owner I complemented them on their taste in vehicles. After doing so the husband admitted with a grin that it was a rental from Surfari... could that have been you guys?
Posted by: Erik | 07/27/2011 at 07:07 PM
My son-in-law recently bought a 72 van. When he took his 10 yr. old daughter for her first ride she asked him in a confused voice ''Dad how do the windows go down.'' When he showed her she was truly amazed.
Posted by: Carl | 07/30/2011 at 01:51 PM
I had a '64 "bus" back in the 70's and had a blast rumbling around in that van. I met the original owner one day in San Pedro who told me he had bought the VW in Germany brand new. He nick-named it patches because of the number of collisions it had gotten into. I should've taken this as an omen because 10 years later when my dad bought it from me he got in a serious accident which left the van totalled and my dad comatose. He would never fully recover from that accident and succumbed to his injuries two years later. "Patches".... a lot of memories, not all of them good.
Posted by: jaydee | 08/26/2011 at 12:54 PM
We drove '68 and '69 VW buses summer of '73 "hippie road" from Frankfurt to New Delhi and back. 8 people each bus. Vehicles, indestructible. Adventures, priceless. The '68 repeated the trip that Fall.
Posted by: Eddie | 08/26/2011 at 11:23 PM
From 2002 to 2004 I did a drive about around North America. Memories and friendships for several lifetimes ... incredible experience .... www.roadhaus.com
Posted by: lchase | 09/19/2011 at 02:09 PM
I am still driving my 1966 VW Bus and frequently get shout outs about would I sell it. My family of 7 bought it new in Germany on our way to live in Egypt in 1966. In Cairo I daily drove paying passengers from the American University to and from the AUC on Tahrir Square and to the Zamalek French School for the young kids of AUC faculty. When full I carried total of 14. It was the last car loaded onto a ship to escape to Europe during the June 1967 6 Day War.
Then it became my 9 year old son's hearse when he died of rabies July 1967. Since then and after divorce it was often the traveling home of my 4 remaining children, filled with chickens when my son moved from Portland to Humboldt Co. CA, my Dogmobile when I raced another of the Border Collies to the vet in California.
The Idiot Book was my faithful friend during my hippie days, and it took me 3 months to complete the rebuilding of my engine, the only time I tackled the complete job. Otherwise it has had several engines, 3 repaintings, and still looks gorgeous.
I drive slowly and locally now due to a genetic eye disease that limits my abilities to cross the country again, but since I will not give it up, my kids purchased their own, and my youngest still has a '71 in Colorado.
Posted by: sharon B | 09/19/2011 at 03:42 PM
I had a '67 VW bus back in 79. My Pops bought brand new when I was a kid. I drove that thing all over So Cal for 6 years. It was my home away from home during my college and post college years. IT served as my hotel on my trip up the coast and supply storage on several camping trips with friends. I gave it back to my Pop when I bought my first car and he kept it another few years before selling it for as much as he paid for it brand new. I wish I still had it.
Posted by: Frank Rizzo | 09/20/2011 at 07:17 AM
Dude, you can't drive a stick???
And find a project bus, get some tools and build one.
I've traveled to J-Tree dozens of times in a '64 and an '81. Once in the dead of winter, coldest nite of my life near skull rock
Posted by: Pete Mizera | 09/20/2011 at 10:13 AM
I'm so in love with the VW bus I started a blog about them. www.volkslivin.com. check it out.
Doing a book about people and their VW experiences and looking for people to interview and photograph. Thank you.
Posted by: kwaku | 09/20/2011 at 10:36 AM
I don't mind the look, very cool. I gave up my 2004 convertible because I got fed up with window parts never-ending replacement. How can the dealers continue to sell parts that they KNOW are unreliable..? You're not taking me for a ride anymore, I'm switching teams.
Posted by: Brian Cooke | 10/12/2011 at 12:36 AM
I crashed one once when some one pulled oput in front of me, face through windshield, deep tuck with steering wheel, knees buckled dash board...no thanks
Posted by: stew | 03/07/2012 at 03:10 PM