The Perfect Cup
How one purveyor translates the new wave of coffee roasting into a potent potable
Lora
Zarubin
photo by Bartholomew Cooke
After my recent column on coffee was published in our May issue (you can still see it at latimesmagazine.com), I was surprised by the response and the emotions it unleashed—both positive and negative. I was accused of knowing nothing of the burgeoning coffee industry or of coffee roasting in general.
On the other end of the spectrum, many readers shared my lack of appreciation for coffee that tastes bitter or otherwise unpleasant. The piece had simply asked a question: “When did coffee stop tasting like coffee?”
After my experience at Intelligentsia, the folks there immediately reached out, saying the article opened an important dialogue with their baristas. They invited me to their Glassell Park roasting facility. I would get a tour, participate in a “cupping” and take one of their espresso seminars.
Kyle Glanville—the second employee hired by Intelligentsia in California—was my tour guide. He explained with an almost evangelical zeal that the company’s approach to buying, harvesting, shipping and roasting is fueling nothing short of a revolution.
Like all fervent roasters, it starts with unique, seasonally sourced beans from the finest coffee-growing regions. After being picked and dried, the beans are packed in specially designed bags to ensure the intrinsic characteristics are retained and to combat any degradation during shipping.
What Intelligentsia doesn’t buy into is the technique of “naturally” processed coffee—berries that are dried in the sun with the fruit on. He said beans pick up flavors from the fruit, making it impossible to detect any defects. Once the coffee is harvested, the characteristics are intrinsic to the bean, and Intelligentsia’s goal is to derive that flavor in the finished drink.
He walked me through a cupping of several coffees, and we sampled each three or four times. Glanville pointed out that as the coffee cools, you can really start to pick up different characteristics. In one, we tasted stewed tomatoes and tamarind. “Pure” or not, I still wasn’t sure I was getting it.
I asked if he could show me Intelligentsia’s method for making perfect coffee at home using a pour-through method. For one serving, use 7.5 ounces of water, heated to 200 degrees (you should try to drink the coffee at about 140 degrees, when the flavors shine through better), and 12 grams of coffee, which has, of course, just been ground with a burr grinder (for more consistency).
The Japanese company Hario makes Intelligentsia’s equipment, which includes a ceramic filter and a stainless-steel pitcher that pours water perfectly over the coffee. They’ve tested lots of waters and find Crystal Geyser best.
For home processing, first rinse your filter with hot water, then add freshly ground coffee to the warmed filter. Pour just enough water over the grounds to wet them, and let the coffee bloom for 45 seconds. (When fresh, coffee will actually puff up because of the CO2.) Slowly pour the rest of the hot water clockwise on the grounds, trying not to hit the filter.
Okay, by now some of you are surely thinking this is way over the top. I’m with you. But as I was watching, it reminded me of a tea ceremony—making this a coffee ceremony of sorts. The passion behind it is contagious—and therein lies the beauty. This is what is behind the new wave of coffee roasters.
As I had my first sip, it was the first time I actually got what Intelligentsia is all about. The flavor was layered, the finish crazily complex. I followed Glanville’s suggestion to let the coffee cool a bit before drinking it, and I did taste more flavors.
Considering a revolution is taking place, I’m happy to be armed with this additional knowledge. There is much to learn from the next generation of roasters. The microcoffee business is still in its infancy, and I realize now that sampling something unfamiliar isn’t a good reason to dismiss it. Then again, it’s also not a reason to drink something that doesn’t wow me. The taste pendulum swings from one direction to another. Somewhere in the middle is a new kind of coffee—and it’s here to stay.
Categories: Drinks / Entertaining / Food / I'm Still Hungry
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Detecting aromas and flavors in coffee is much like detecting them in wine. There is a set of flavors that are easily identifiable for the average person (vanilla, chocolate, coffee, cinnamon, clove, etc) which can be found in both coffee and wine. It takes imagination to stew up some of the more original ones like...stewed tomatoes. Some of my favorites in the wine world are 'marshy', 'sewer,' and 'petrol.' But then there are the lovely dried rose petals, blackberry, and even leather. I'm not sure what drives people to need to define so intricately, so precisely what for others is enjoyed simply for what it is.
--long-time Broadway Intelligentsia customer, now drinking Monmouth Coffee in London.
Posted by: James LaForest | 09/07/2010 at 11:07 AM
Intelligentsia has been sniping at its customers for not being smart enough since the mid-1990s back on Broadway in Chicago. Big deal. I got over it, so should the author.
Never mind that, anyway -- Intelligentsia is now a national concern, supplying cafes everywhere from Pittsburgh to New York and whatnot; coffee lovers should really be supporting great local coffee joints in the neighborhood like Lamill and Cafecito Organico.
Anyway, it's all good -- LA is definitely acquiring a real coffee culture and hopefully that continues to grow.
Posted by: DJ | 09/08/2010 at 04:19 AM
I agree with DJ that Intelligentsia has been sniping at its customers about not knowing enough about coffee. I'm quite fanatical regarding espresso. So, I was about to purchase a 20 oz. frothing and was immediately sniped at with "that frothing cup is wayyyy too big for your little home machine." I said, "No, it's fine, I have a larger machine?" The barista, not trusting my simple answer responded, "Well, you'll never get rich froth from a 20 ouncer." I have a rancilio silvia and the machine is perfectly capable of steaming enough milk in a 20 oz. pitcher for two cappuccinos. The was the last time I visited Intelligentsia. Since I've moved to the Bay Area and visit the local coffee shops much more. It was nice to see the owner of Pacific Bay in Walnut Creek actually explaining with a smile how to best enjoy coffee to his customers who are less familiar with roasting and brewing. A nice change from the pretense of places like Intelligentsia and Blue Bottle. I'm all about enjoying fine espresso and explaining to others how to enjoy it as well. It's too bad Intelligentsia and Blue Bottle aren't like that as the espresso is quite good.
Posted by: Ejay | 09/14/2010 at 08:09 PM
I found out about Intelligentsia thru my Saeco coffee maker repairman. He turned me on to Blackcat Expresso beans. 5 lbs. for 65 bucks! You can find them on Intellgentsia's website. Highly recommend them! Cheers!
Posted by: AJ LAMB | 09/15/2010 at 01:28 PM
I couldn't agree more about intelligentsia coffee. They seem to go about their business excellently.
Posted by: BenP | 09/20/2010 at 11:27 AM
Today I combined a shot of espresso to my coffee. Fabu! If you havent tried it, and your a coffee drinker its worthy. The bitterness of the coffee mixed with a sweeter oatmeal creates a lovely balance.
Posted by: vin | 12/21/2010 at 10:29 AM