(Fish) (Delicious)
In a city where even supermarkets offer sushi, we try to make sense of our obsession
by Lora Zarubin / photographs by Victoria Pearson
illustration by Jameson Simpson
There is no town more sushi crazed than Los Angeles. But just what is it about raw fish that sends Angelenos into such a frenzy?
As a sushi devotee myself, I thought there wasn’t much more I could learn about experiencing the bite-size seafood morsels. Turns out I was wrong. True sushi mastery can actually be discovered through the most unexpected sources—like my acupuncturist.
Now, everyone has a favorite sushi bar: Nozawa, Matsuhisa, Sushi Sasabune, Mori Sushi, Sushi Park, the Hump. People always think theirs is the best, and passions run high. I am no different, I guess. My favorite place is Sushi Gen, on 2nd Street in Little Tokyo, owned by Toshiaki Toyoshima—aka Toyo-san—a true sushi master, who has been putting his spin on the delicacy for more than 42 years. He stands to the side of his sushi chefs and yells, “Irashai masai!”(“Welcome!”) at patrons as they enter, because, he says, the volume of his voice correlates with the freshness of his fish.
I recently strolled through a seafood market with Toyo-san and saw firsthand the high regard in which he is held. He commands the place, his fish waiting on trolleys for him to inspect, choose or reject.
When my acupuncturist first pointed me to Sushi Gen, he gave me a note to present to chef Kazu Shimizu, written in Japanese and folded into origami. Upon arrival, I was advised to sit right in front of Kazu. It was like being inducted into a secret society. My few instructions before entering this world were to trust Kazu, not to use too much soy sauce and, if I enjoyed my meal, to offer him a tip.
Kazu, as it turns out, is a sushi chef’s sushi chef. Like many professionals in his field, his head is shaved, symbolizing that he and his bar are impeccably clean. To add to the purity, he wears no chains, no rings, no watch.
Over the years, I’ve learned a few lessons sure to optimize the sushi-eating experience. For starters, get to the restaurant when it opens to ensure the fish is at its coldest—all the better to experience the vivid contrast between the chilly sushi and the rice, which should, according to Toyo-san, be body temperature. Sashimi should be eaten with chopsticks, sushi with your hands; soy sauce should be used sparingly; and when eating sushi, it’s the fish that should be dipped, not the rice. As for wasabi, purists either use very little or none at all. And the pickled ginger is meant to cleanse your palate between each course.
Now that I’ve been admitted to this special world, it is time to taste and savor Sushi Gen’s delicacies. Traditionally, it’s proper to start with sashimi, then move on to sushi, but the best choice may just be omakase—literally meaning “entrusted,” giving your palate over to the chef. Whether it’s halibut with a squeeze of yuzu, lemon and salt; fresh local uni served with a quail egg; mild red snapper; or delicate albacore, every piece Kazu serves is a revelation.
What are some ways to judge a sushi bar? One is the quality of the nori—the seaweed. It should melt in your mouth but stay crunchy. I experienced this delightful contradiction when Kazu made one of my favorite rolls, negi-toro-maki, chopping together tuna and scallions. His handrolls are like nori pillows. He makes standard rolls like California, but you are missing out if you don’t try one of his squid or spicy scallop rolls.
It has often occurred to me that many sushi novices make mistakes. “What’s the worst thing anyone has done in front of you at the sushi bar?” I ask Kazu. Turns out it is two things: first, when people take apart the sushi, dip the fish in a pool of soy sauce and then put it back together and eat it; and second, when they cut their sushi in pieces with their chopsticks. Connoisseurs all know chefs consider their food as art, and it should be eaten exactly as it is served.
As if sushi lovers need more incentive, it is, by almost any definition, health food—low in fat (with the exception of toro, or fatty tuna), high in protein, with only moderate amounts of carbohydrates. It’s also loaded with vitamins, minerals and omega-3 fatty acids. The vinegar in the rice has antibacterial properties thought to fight high blood pressure; wasabi is rich in vitamin C and stimulates saliva and digestive fluids; ginger has antibacterial powers and is known as a digestive aid; and nori packs protein, minerals and vitamins.
What about all the talk of mercury and sustainability? There is some overfishing, and while some fish are high in mercury, some are not. The information is out there for sushi lovers to make their decisions accordingly. I’ve spoken to some sushi lovers who have cut back and others who never will. When I speak to the sushi masters, they say moderation is their message.
Lots of sushi bars are experimenting with combinations of sashimi and sushi that push the limits of culinary creativity, but I prefer to partake of the traditional and let the quality do the talking. Sushi Gen is not a bossy, stressful place with rules you must abide by, like having to order omakase if you sit at the bar or getting kicked out if your cell phone rings while you are seated.
Sushi Gen—and Kazu—are about two things: being one with the fish and reveling in the experience of being transported into a gastronomic pleasure zone.
Categories: City Landmarks / Feature Story / Food / I'm Still Hungry / Photos / Pictorials
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This is a lovely piece, and inspiring. But the author hasn't written about the dangers of parasites that are high in uncooked fish, and can wreak havoc on the body when undetected.
Sometimes the fish is flash frozen-- Though it sounds like something you'd never want to do to your vegetables, in fact, the flash freezing keeps the fish pretty fresh, as well as kills the parasites.
Does Sushi-Gen do this? What of the other delicious, top-notch sushi spots mentioned?
Posted by: jane | 11/01/2009 at 10:39 AM
Well. we always start with Toro and Maguro nigiri sushi. By the time the yellow tail and white fishes make their entry normally they came in sashimi style in some type of ponzu sauce.
I say sometimes because we just just let the chef take care of us.
Through the meal we'll ask for the sweet shrimp (botan) which usually comes nigiri style (except for the fried heads) and for soft shell crab maki (roll).
At the end I always ask for Kohada, a plum hand roll and some "agari"--- ocha.
Sometimes we'll buy the chef a beer.
And always leave a tip... That means that good sushi for a family of four is never cheap... however, it sure is good.
It helps too that my wife is japanase-american and fluent with the language... ;-)
Posted by: tonyE | 11/01/2009 at 10:52 AM
Was this article a commercial for Sushi Gen?? i think you ought to eat around a bit more. Sushi Gen does the weirdest preparations I've ever seen (see their Chirashi). I suggest sushi 555, but there are others. Stay away from any, ANY, sushi bar that has Latino chefs (like Katsu ya) No disrespect, but tradition is very much part of the sushi/sashima experience.
Posted by: dean cushman | 11/01/2009 at 10:56 AM
Unfortunately, there is not "some" overfishing -- rather, the oceans are being fished out at a rate such that there will be virtually no seafood by 2050. It seems that it is our duty, living at this time in history, to forgo such pleasures as sushi for the larger benefit of the survival of ocean wildlife.
Posted by: Mark | 11/01/2009 at 11:00 AM
Sushi Gen is my favorite, no attitude place for sushi. Well deserved to feature Toyo-san and Kazu-san.
Where were the photos of the sushi dishes taken? Sushi Gen doesn't do decorative presentation. Their presentation is very zen. Simple, clean, attractive.
Posted by: Jongo Y | 11/01/2009 at 04:05 PM
That should be "irrashaimase," rather than "irashaimasai"
Posted by: Marimo | 11/03/2009 at 08:34 AM
"Some ovefishing"???! Sushi is an exquisite pleasure, but let's not be naive. I wonder, Ms. Zarubin, is that denial or true ignorance?
Posted by: Jonathan | 11/03/2009 at 08:54 AM
tonyE your opinion is in fact disrespectful to every latino cook in los angeles working in japanese/french/italian/thai/etc.etc. restaurants. quality and tradition are not mutually exclusive. mediocrity, however, does not discriminate and can be had any restaurant served by any ethnic group.
Posted by: german | 11/03/2009 at 09:05 AM
Irasshai mase
Posted by: Hiranuma Masayuki | 11/03/2009 at 09:36 AM
Enjoy it now as wild fish won't be around much longer. The sheer greed that incites over-fishing, negligent resource management, and the now unavoidable demise of many species is a self-fulfilling prophecy. A sad commentary on the blatantly ignorant , vulgar, and pathetic mankind.
Posted by: Anabelle Rothschild | 11/03/2009 at 09:52 AM
The headline of this article promises to "make sense" of a "sushi obsession". The actual content of the article is neither insightful nor does it give us any new information. Rules for eating sushi? What is this -1988? I understand this is a lifestyle piece, but the issues of environmental contaminants and overfishing are glossed over in such a glib fashion, it's embarrassing.
Posted by: Jill | 11/03/2009 at 11:46 AM
@Jane
The green leaf served with sushi at decent restaurants (perilla - aojiso in Japanese, zi su ye in Mandarin) is renowned in Eastern medicine for killing seafood-borne parasites. Sadly the supermarket sushi (of inferior fish and more likely to contain said parasites) tends to come with a fake plastic leaf/
Posted by: subgenius | 11/03/2009 at 11:53 AM
As a chef in New York City I find Dean's comment to be totally erroneous. There is no reason that a Latino chef can not make good sushi just like a Japanese one can make bad. One does not have to be a member of an ethic group to cook that groups food. If a chef has the interest in a cuisine and perseverance the is no reason that they can not learn to do it right. I've had some pretty bad sushi made by Japanese chefs and some good made by non-Japanese.
Posted by: Robert Rovegno | 11/03/2009 at 12:05 PM
TonyE-
I guess if you're looking for authenticity (according to your standards), any non-Japanese chef should be excluded also. The fact you explicitly specify Latinos says alot about your backward ideas. Obviously the world doesn't agree with you, considering how popular is Katsuya's.
Posted by: Albert Alvarez | 11/03/2009 at 02:24 PM
Sorry, my last post was directed to Dean. My apologies Tony.
Posted by: Albert Alvarez | 11/03/2009 at 02:34 PM
So someone actually thinks a sushi chef has to be born Japanese to properly prepare and serve sushi? And after making such a disrespectful comment, he tries to fluff it over by saying "no disrespect" intended? Let's face it, dude, you're a racist. That was an ignorant remark. Seriously, dumb.
Also, along with those who have pointed out the health and overfishing issues, it should be noted that catching schools of yellowtail always involves using large seine nets, and they invariably trap and kill dolphin pods that swim above the tuna. From a compassionate point of view, a little restraint when ordering certain fish can go a long way.
Posted by: Billy Criswell | 11/04/2009 at 08:22 AM
Sorry, my post was directed to Dean. My apologies tonyE.
Posted by: german | 11/04/2009 at 11:44 AM
In Brasil, 90% of the sushi chefs are Brasilian. Sushi is very popular here too, and they do a great job. It's all about training, not ethnicity. That was a ridiculous comment. The worst sushi I have ever eaten (or rather spit out) was in Japan.
Posted by: airlegs | 11/05/2009 at 12:22 PM
Kind of ridiculous to present this as a guide to sushi in Los Angeles. There are far more informed people who could have written this article. The author's favorite might be Sushi Gen but that doesn't mean this place is anywhere near the level of the best sushi places in Los Angeles. It is rather insulting to the better sushi masters. Plus it does no justice to those of us who are always trying to learn more about sushi. A real let down.
Posted by: Ernst Suley | 11/06/2009 at 10:23 AM
What is "Irasshai mase" ???
Posted by: essays | 02/22/2010 at 06:02 AM
Plain and simple sushi gen is non-commercial, and serves the best best fish for its price. Its not a location where you will see the stars because at sushi gen the stars are the chefs. So, to all you haters stick to your locataion and lets bask in the sun today.
Posted by: dan | 06/23/2010 at 09:55 AM
I should trust a sushi guide that misspells the common Japanese greeting "irrashaimase" as "Irashai Masai" in the first paragraph? This article is little more than a love fest for Sushi Gen, not a guide to sushi in Los Angeles.
Posted by: marshall | 06/24/2010 at 06:47 AM
Much, much more should have been covered on the sustainability issue.
Moreover, I'd appreciate knowing which chefs are not keeping bluefin off their menu. I'll avoid those.
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Sushi is delicious and somehow addictive. If you try it once, you'll definitely want to eat it again
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Sushi is very popular here too, and they do a great job. It's all about training, not ethnicity. That was a ridiculous comment. The worst sushi I have ever eaten (or rather spit out) was in Japan.
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ushi Gen—and Kazu—are about two things: being one with the fish and reveling in the experience of being transported into a gastronomic pleasure zone.
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