July 2009

palate—July 2009

edited by Lora Zarubin



I’m obsessed with cooking over fire, so this summer, my favorite new cookbook is chef Francis Mallmann’s Seven Fires: Grilling the Argentine Way (Artisan). The country is renowned for this cooking style, and Mallmann, a native Patagonian, includes recipes on everything from classic asado to pork tenderloin with burnt brown sugar, orange confit and thyme. A must for any obsessed griller. $35.



Much as Riedel did for glasses for different types of wine, Spiegelau is doing for beer. Each glass in the collection, whether for lager, pilsner or wheat beer, is designed to bring out a brew’s individual aromatics and style—not to mention its appropriate, perfect foamy head. Cheers. $7.99–$11.99 per glass. Wally’s Wine & Spirits, 2107 Westwood Blvd., Los Angeles, 310-475-0606, wallywine.com.



It’s not every hot-dog purveyor that’s invited to serve its wares at a highly regarded wine shop. But Sue Moore’s Let’s Be Frank links—made from premium hormone- and steroid-free grass-fed beef, full of omega-3 acids and lower in fat and sodium—aren’t your typical weiners. It may seem like an unusual pairing, but these are unusual dogs! Thursdays, 5 to 10 p.m. Silverlake Wine, 2395 Glendale Blvd., Los Angeles, 323-662-9024, letsbefrankdogs.com.



There will be two beers I’ll be pouring this summer: Inedit, created in collaboration with the Spanish artisanal producer Estrella Damm, Ferran Adrià and his sommeliers at El Bulli, perfect to pair with the most complex food combinations; and Stone IPA, the beer of choice for hopheads—those like me, who prefer their ales replete with a good dose of hops and a robust and crisp finish. Inedit, $9.99; Stone, $ 10.49. BevMo citywide, bevmo.com.



The way L.A. has embraced Scoops (712 N. Heliotrope Dr., Los Angeles, 323-906-2649), you’d think we had never eaten gelato before. Well, considering the creativity and originality founder Tai Kim brings to his creamy, cold confection, maybe we haven’t. And, really, who doesn’t want to research ice cream?

Why ice cream?
Tai Kim: After studying painting at CalArts, I took courses at Western Culinary Institute, and the product choices were ice cream or cheese. Making cheese took too long, so I decided to go with ice cream.

What is it that separates you from the competition in a town that takes its ice cream very seriously?
TK: Somehow, I believe my painting background works well for this: Creating flavors is like mixing colors.

How do you come up with the flavors? And what have been your most and least successful so far?
TK: I have a suggestion board for customers. The ideas I find interesting, I try. The flavor that outsells everything is Brown Bread, inspired by vanilla ice cream and Grape-Nuts. The worst flavor I ever made was cilantro and lime.

Is there a flavor you are developing at the moment?
TK: Right now I’m experimenting with malt and honey. The taste is like drinking a malted milk with the earthy, sweet taste of honey. Very surprising—in a good way.

What’s your advice to someone coming to Scoops for the first time?
TK: Since Saturday is our busiest day, that’s when I experiment. We serve flavors like coconut-lemongrass, chocolate–black sesame and chestnut with marsala wine, which are only available on that day.